Haremere Jacket

This jacket is from the Merchant & Mills Workbook, and I really loved the casual boyfriend-style jacket look. I wanted to use this as a first try at sewing with wool, and it was great fun. Here’s what I did:

1. The fabric

I bought this harris tweed from Croft Mill. They have an amazing selection of wools and I was spoilt for choice really. I selected this navy blue one because I know the colour suits me and it would go with other things in my wardrobe. When it arrived I was really happy with how soft it felt as I know wool can get really scratchy, although I wouldn’t want it in contact with my skin for a long period of time. For the lining I decided to use a cotton lawn which I have bought from Croft Mill as well, it was a brown colour with a paisley floral pattern – a bit much for a whole garment but perfect for lining.

2. The pattern

This pattern is from Merchant and Mills workbook, and you can decide whether you want it to be a hip length coat or a bit longer. I decided to go with the longer version so it would keep me that bit warmer in the winter. I didn’t make any other changes to the pattern, mainly because it is a coat with a very loose fit, but on reflection I probably should have done a full bust adjustment and possibly a narrow shoulder adjustment. It’s a lined jacket and the pattern has a really clever criss-cross structure at the back, where just the upper shoulders are lined, and it looks really unique.

3. The challenges

I really enjoyed making this pattern mainly because the wool is so delightful to work with. When cutting it out it felt almost brittle and I was able to cut it very precisely. The pattern instructions are very well explained and were a joy to follow, with lots of clear pictures. I particularly enjoyed making the pockets with the lining enclosed. The only part of the pattern I found a little bit worrying was at the collar where you have pivot points and you have to snip right up to the stitch line, which always makes me nervous. I wasn’t sure how to finish the edges of my seams, but in the end I decided to do a Hong Kong finish to make it nice and fancy.

4. The final result

When I first made this jacket I thought I would be wearing it for formal occasions, but because of the dropped shoulder it actually this looks really casual, so I’ve been wearing it for country walks on relaxed winter days rather than for work. I love the fabric and I’m really pleased with the overall look of the garment, I’m less pleased with the fit and as mentioned I think it would have been better to make some adjustments, in particular the dropped shoulder is very dropped of my body. I also find that it falls off my shoulders very easily, so I’ve taken to wearing a belt with it which makes it more comfortable to wear and I prefer the look. I’ve already got loads of wear out of this jacket, I really love it and I look forward to wearing it lots more in the future!